Workshop Choice

Katharine Guerrier 0

Art Deco Style

Combine Pattern and Technique in this Wallhanging

Katharine Guerrier


Requirements

Size: 18" x 12½" (46 x 32 cm).
Materials required: Six fat quarters in a variety of harmonising colours. I used hand dyed and batik fabrics. Choose a selection of fabrics which have contrast in the value as well as the colours.
Backing fabric: 20" x 15" (51 x 38 cm).
Low loft wadding: 20" x 15" (51 x 38 cm).
Machine quilting thread.
Stitch'n'Tear.



A combination of different patterns goes into this small wallhanging. Try out the different techniques for quarter square triangles, sawtooth triangles, seminole diamonds and narrow foundation pieced zigzags, all of which are useful for other projects such as panels for cushions, bags or quilts.

Make the different pattern sections first.

Follow these instructions in conjunction with the step-by-step photographs.




Sawtooth Triangles
The sawtooth triangles are half square or right-angled triangles stitched together in a row.

1. Choose two of the fabrics with a high contrast and cut three 2½" (6.5 cm) squares from each. Place the pairs right sides together, draw one diagonal line and stitch ¼" (0.75 cm) each side of the line (see right).

2. Cut along the centre line and press the seam allowance to the darker side. Cut off the extending triangle of the seam allowance (see below).

3. Stitch five of the triangle units together in a line keeping the orientation of the seams correct. If necessary, the units can be trimmed down to adjust the fit to the other pieces (see bottom pic).

Note: If you want to change the size of the triangles, the rule is to add 7/8 of an inch (0.875 cm) to the desired finished size of the squares you cut to begin with.
Katherine Guerrier 1
Katherine Guerrier 2

Katherine Guerrier 3


Quarter Square Triangles

1. Choose two fabrics and cut one square of each 4¼" (11 cm). Place these right sides together, draw two diagonal lines then stitch a seam from the edge of the squares to the centre, ¼" (0.75 cm) to the left of the drawn lines as illustrated in the sample. This makes a 'windmill' pattern (see below left).


2. Cut across both of the diagonal centre lines, this will yield four bi-coloured triangles. Press seams to the darker side (see below right).


3. Stitch pairs together as illustrated to make two quarter square triangle units. Cut off the extending seam allowances (see right).


Note: If you want to change the size of the units the rule is to add 1¼" (3.25 cm) to the desired finished size of the squares you cut to begin with.

Katherine Guerrier 6
Katherine Guerrier 4
Katherine Guerrier 5


Seminole Diamonds

Choose two fabrics with a high contrast.

1. For the diamonds, cut one strip 1¼" (3.25 cm.) x 10" (25.5 cm) and two strips for the background 1¾" (4.5 cm) x 10" (25.5 cm).

Stitch these together with the narrower strip in the centre as illustrated below. Press seams away from the centre and trim the short edge at a 90° angle to the seams, then cut seven 1¼" (3.25 cm) segments.

Katherine Guerrier 7


2. Stitch these together, displacing the seams to create the diamond pattern, then cut a 2½" (6.25 cm) square of the background fabric. Cut this in half diagonally to make two triangles and stitch one of these at each end of the diamond strip. Press.

Katherine Guerrier 8


3. Trim away excess fabric at the top and bottom of the strip ¼" (0.75 cm) away from the points of the diamonds. Leave the short ends until you need to adjust the length to fit.

Katherine Guerrier 9


Foundation Pieced Zigzag Panel

1. See below. Trace the zigzag design onto 'Stitch'n'Tear' with a fine line pen or sharp pencil, including the outer dotted line. Choose two pieces of fabric which contrast well - the higher the contrast the more impact the zigzags will have.

Note: The dimensions of this template are 5 5/8" x 3 5/8" (14 x 9 cm). A ¼" (0.75 cm) seam allowance is shown. Although the dimensions of the diagram have been calculated precisely, there may be some distortion because of different screen resolutions and different printer characteristics. However, the illustration in the PDF (printer friendly) version of this workshop will generally be precise.
Katherine Guerrier 10


Cut strips 1½" wide x 7" long (3.75 x 17.75 cm.), four of one and three of the other.

Place strip number one, right side uppermost over the shape numbered 1 on the template, on the plain side of the foundation, making sure you have covered beyond the dotted line.

Pin the strip of fabric to the foundation then, from the back where the stitching lines are visible, tack along the line separating shape 1 and 2. This will help you to position the second strip more accurately.

Katherine Guerrier 11


2. Position the second strip in the contrast fabric, right side down against the first with the raw edge just beyond the tacking line by a scant ¼" (0.75 cm). Turn the foundation over, remove the tacking and stitch along the line separating shape 1 and 2. Turn back and trim away excess fabric along the seam line, then flip the second strip flat against the foundation and press. Turn back and tack along the line separating shape 2 and 3 to mark the next stitching line.

Katherine Guerrier 12


3. Add the third strip in the same way, then tack along the line separating shape 3 and 4 to mark it.

Katherine Guerrier 13


4. Continue to add alternate strips until all the shapes have been covered.

Katherine Guerrier 14


5. Press well and trim away excess fabrics and foundation on the dotted lines all round the outer edges.

Make two quarter square triangle units, two sawtooth strips, two zigzag panels and one seminole diamond strip
in colourways of your choice.

Katherine Guerrier 15


Assembling the Centre Panel

Working from the top and, using the picture as a guide, stitch one quarter square unit to a zigzag panel. Press, then cut a 2" (5 cm) strip of another colour and add this. Press then trim the strip down to 1¼" (3.25 cm) measuring from the seam.

Adjust the length of the sawtooth strip if necessary and add this, then add another 2" (5 cm) strip of another colour and trim as before.

Now add the seminole diamond strip, adjusting the length if necessary and another straight strip. Make up another zigzag and quarter square section and add this, then another straight strip and finally the last sawtooth strip. Press well.


Inner Border

The finished width of the inner border is ¾" (2 cm). Cut strips of sufficient length and 2" (5 cm) wide to begin with, add these to the sides, top and bottom then trim down to 1" (2.5 cm) measuring from the seam, to get a nice, straight line.

The finished size of the outer borders are 2" (5 cm) wide. Cut these 3" (7.75 cm), add to the sides, top and bottom, press and trim to 2½ (5.75 cm) measuring from the seams.


Adding the Backing and Wadding

Make up a piece of backing 14" (35.5 cm) wide x 20" (51 cm) long. Cut this across the width in the centre, then stitch a seam across with a gap big enough to turn through.

Place the quilt top and backing right sides together, press then tack these two layers, then trim the backing to the same size as the quilt top exactly.

Cut a piece of wadding slightly bigger than the quilt and backing. Smooth this wadding onto the wrong side of the patchwork panel. With the backing on top, pin the three layers together, then stitch all round the outer edges by machine with the backing uppermost and the wadding underneath. Trim the wadding close to the stitching and trim the corners to reduce bulk.

Turn through to the right side through the gap in the backing. Finger press the seams so they lie along the edges without forming any pleats. Press lightly. Hem stitch the gap across the back to close it.


Quilting

Use a variegated coloured thread to quilt with and matching coloured thread on the back. Check that the tension on your machine is right on a sample of the quilt 'sandwich' made from the same materials by doing a few lines of stitching. The stitch length can be adjusted at this stage as well.

The feed dogs are engaged and I used short lines of stitching, following or 'contour quilting' the shapes of the patches.

If you can set the machine so that the needle goes to the down position when stitching stops, this helps to prevent the work moving when you want to turn. Try as far as you can to quilt in a continuous line without too many stops and starts so you won't have to deal with numerous thread ends. If you do need to move across the surface, sew on the spot for a few stitches, then clip thread ends close to the surface.

Occasionally, it is easier to go over a short line of stitching twice rather than stop and start a new line of stitching.

When quilting is finished, trim away any loose threads and don't forget to add a label on the back.


Katharine Guerrier has been making quilts since 1980. She studied printed textiles and printmaking at Camberwell School of Art in London. More recently she has studied short courses with Michael James, Pauline Burbidge and Margaret Miller. She has been teaching Patchwork and Quilting workshops since 1985 including five years on a textile course at Hereford College of Art.

Katharine's work has been featured in various magazines both British and American and also in her own books. She is a regular contributor to current local and national quilt exhibitions. Her work draws on the traditional motifs of pieced patchwork, developing them to give a contemporary feel and using colour as an important part of the design process. An interest in all the Decorative Arts is the motivation which provides the incentive to attempt to create textiles which are original and collectable.

Her recently published books 'Masterclass Quilting','Quilting from Start to Finish' and 'Scrap Quilt Sensation' are currently available. A CD is also available 'Patchwork Postcards and Pinboard Quilts'; contact: .



Workshop Choice