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Red Hot Chillies

Combine paint and stitch to create a textural wallhanging

Kate Dowty


For the first stage, you will need:

White or unbleached cotton fabric (well washed or prepared for dyeing (PFD);
Acrylic paint in appropriate colours;
A mirror tile, at least 12" (30 cm) square (or a sheet of glass with the edges taped to prevent accidents);
A paint/ink roller (from the art shop not the home improvement shop);
A pencil, small paint brush or similar blunt-ended tool;
A palette knife for mixing paints;

Plus
Some basic drawing and colouring media for the initial studies.





Familiar everyday fruits, flowers and vegetables provide inspirational design sources, both while they are still growing and after they have been harvested.

Select your subject. Study it closely, record it, observe its special characteristics. Look at it from different angles, cut it in half, slice it, dissect it. Then, when you are very familiar with it, work from the images retained in your mind to create an impressionistic version using paint and stitch.

The examples used in this workshop are based on chilli pepper plants growing on a West Dorset chilli farm.





Record and Sample

Look Record Remember

  • Take photographs (see right).

  • Make quick colour sketches of the key elements (see below left).

  • Try other recording techniques. All will help with the familiarisation process. This paper collage moves the sketch to another stage of abstraction. The "feel" of the growing plant is still there but there is no attempt at botanical accuracy (see below right).

  • Consider shapes, colours and proportions. Which colour predominates? How does the size of the fruit compare to that of the leaves? Is the surface matt? Or shiny?



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Sample possible techniques



For this exercise, various stitched samples were tried before deciding to use paint (see right and below).

Two paint techniques were then sampled, Monoprint and Roller Print.

Acrylic paint was used throughout and you can refer to the Hints box at the end of the article for more information about working with acrylics.

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Step 1: Monoprint


You will need to work quickly, otherwise the paint will dry before you are ready. Have some kitchen roll handy to wipe up any spills.

Put some paint on the mirror tile and spread with the roller to achieve an even layer. Have the image you are trying to create in your mind and place the colour accordingly. Clean mirror surface and roller between colours but you can allow adjacent colour areas to blend a little where they meet. Keep it very simple - the aim is to have areas of colour in roughly the right position, not to paint a picture (see below).

Note: You can mix two or more paint colours (such as blue and yellow to make green) directly on the glass with a palette knife. The variations in shade achieved by this can make the result look more interesting.



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Next, using bold strokes, draw the key lines of your image directly onto the glass using the blunt end of a pencil, paintbrush or similar tool (see right). Remember that the final print on fabric will be (literally) a mirror image.

Carefully place your fabric over the paint. Press evenly and firmly all over to transfer the paint onto the fabric (see below). Peel back the fabric and put aside to dry (see bottom pic).

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Here, you can see the end result, with some stitching. Note that the mirror effect means that the image is reversed.

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Step 2: Roller Print

Spread paint on the mirror tile as before to load the roller then roll the paint directly onto the fabric. This treatment results in interesting textures on the cloth and provides a background to be enhanced with stitch (see below).

When the fabric is dry, 'draw' the key lines of your image with stitch, then fill in with dense free machine stitching as is shown in the sample on the right.

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Developing the Samples

Any of the stitched or painted samples could be developed further. We are going to take the roller print sample from Step 2 and develop it into a wallhanging. You will need:
  • White or unbleached cotton fabric, well washed or prepared for dyeing (PFD);

  • Acrylic paint in appropriate colours;

  • Backing fabric and wadding;

  • Monofilament;

  • A range of threads in appropriate colours.
All the time you work, visualise the original source in your head. Refer to your notes and sketches but don't work directly from them. You are trying to create an impression of the source, not an exact replica.


Decide the approximate size of the finished piece. Tear the cotton fabric into manageable sized pieces so that you can build up your background in sections. It's much easier to work small unless you have a very large work surface.

Using the roller technique, apply paint to the first section of fabric (see right). This will represent a section of your final image. Then pin the painted piece on a wall or lay it on the floor.

Refer to this section while producing the adjacent one. Continue until you have built up the entire background like a puzzle made of square or rectangular pieces. It will look a bit of mess at this stage but do not despair - it's only a background (see below).



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Layer backing fabric and wadding. If very large, you could machine stitch them together to hold them steady while you work on the top.

Position the painted sections, in order, on top of the wadding, overlapping slightly where they meet. Hold in place with safety pins, then stitch through all the layers with monofilament. Both the raw edges and the monofilament will be barely visible in the finished piece. (You could piece the top sections together before layering if you prefer.)

Stitch in key outlines using a thicker than normal thread. This needs to be stitched from the back with the thicker thread in the bobbin. (It is preferable to have a spare bobbin case for this so as not to damage the fine tension setting of the normal one.)

Working from the top, start by roughly tacking the main outlines that you plan to follow. Turn over and use these tacking stitches as a guide for your first drawing lines using the thicker thread. Work with a darning foot and the feed dogs down.

In this example, the chilli shapes were stitched first in red. Next, draw the leaf shapes directly onto the backing fabric in pencil (an ordinary pencil is fine; it will all be covered eventually with stitch) then stitch over the lines, this time with thick green thread in the bobbin. Remember, the image will be reversed on the front.

If you prefer, you could couch the heavier thread to the quilt sandwich from the top.

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Return to the front and fill the outlined shapes with dense machine stitching. Don't forget to change the bobbin/bobbin case before starting this stage. Vary the stitches and the threads. Consider which areas should be darker and which lighter in tone. The greater the variety of texture, the more interesting the result.

Trim edges. Look at the piece and finish the edges as desired.

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Some hints on working with acrylic paint:

  • Protect precious surfaces with plastic sheeting and newspaper.
  • Acrylic paint dries very quickly so it is essential to work fast. For the same reason, wash any brushes or implements used before they dry out.
  • Although painted fabric can be washed with care, it is not recommended.
  • Acrylic paint is essentially plastic. Don't try to iron it. If you really must, sandwich the fabric between sheets of parchment paper, use a cool iron and no steam.
  • Painted fabric can feel quite stiff at first. It will soften somewhat as you work with it and handle it.
  • If you are unsure about working directly onto fabric, test the techniques on paper first.
Try other variations; after all, chillies are not the only fruit. . .

The pic on the right uses paint applied with a brush. The seeds were painted separately then fused to the painted fabric. The outline thread was couched by hand. Some dyed fabric was also fused to the surface (the small tomatoes).

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Suppliers


Acrylic paint and paint rollers
Any good art shop. (Paint rollers are often sold as rollers for printing inks.)
Mirror tiles or glass
Home improvement shops/stores.

Prepared for dyeing (PFD) fabric
UK: www.whaleys-bradford.ltd.uk
North America: www.joann.com or www.testfabrics.com
Australasia: www.patchworkinteractive.com.au

Hobbs Heirloom Premium Cotton Blend 80/20 wadding
UK: www.creativegrids.com and others.
North America: www.joann.com
Australasia: www.patchworkinteractive.com.au

Sulky monofilament and rayon threads
UK: www.cottonpatch.co.uk and many others
North America: www.joann.com
Australasia: www.patchworkinteractive.com.au

YLI variegated machine quilting cotton threads
UK: www.creativegrids.com and others.
North America: www.joann.com
Australasia: www.patchworkinteractive.com.au

Thicker weight rayon threads
UK: www.handweaversstudio.co.uk
North America: www.joann.com
Australasia: www.patchworkinteractive.com.au




Kate Dowty's background is in graphics having studied Visual Communications at art school. In 1996, an interest in stitch led her to a City & Guilds course in Patchwork & Quilting. Today, she works with fabric and thread to create quilted wallhangings. She says 'Some pieces are very simple, others are heavily embellished; some are inspired by the world around me, while for others the cloth itself provides inspiration. All are colourful. I particularly enjoy the textural effects that result from adding stitch to cloth.'



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